There are some small things in life that can quietly connect you back to where you came from, even when you have lived somewhere else for many years.

Like me. One of those things is hot cross buns.

Tamara made a batch last night, and the smell coming out of the kitchen instantly took me back to England.

Traditionally, hot cross buns are eaten on Good Friday in England. That was always the rule. You didn’t question it. Hot cross buns meant Good Friday.

But over the years, living here in Bosnia, traditions for me have blended a little, shifted a little, and now in our house they tend to appear on Easter Sunday instead.

I’m not entirely sure if that’s breaking some ancient rule somewhere… but I’m fairly certain it isn’t.

Hot cross buns go back hundreds of years in England. They are spiced sweet buns made with dried fruit, marked with a cross on the top, and the cross traditionally represents the crucifixion.

In the past, people believed the buns had protective powers, like sailors would take them on voyages to prevent shipwreck, and people would hang them in their kitchens to protect their homes from fire.

When you live abroad for a long time, food becomes memory. Certain smells, certain tastes, certain recipes, they are like little time machines.

One bite and you are somewhere else, a different version of yourself.

So today, eating hot cross buns made by my Bosnian wife, I’m thinking about England, Easter, radio ships (if you know, you know) and the strange path life has taken me.

And, it’s so true. You can take the Englishman out of England but you’ll never take England out of the Englishman.

Anyway, the buns were excellent. Absolutely excellent.

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Over the years I’ve been asked many times what healthcare is like here in Bosnia and Herzegovina, especially as I’m now in my seventies and, like most of us as we get older, healthcare becomes a little more important in everyday life.

So in this video I wanted to sit down and talk honestly about my own experiences, not as an expert, not as an advisor, but simply as someone who lives here, pays into the healthcare system here, and has used hospitals, doctors, ambulances and specialists here in real life.

I talk about how I went from temporary residence to permanent residence, how I was able to join the state healthcare system in Republika Srpska, what I pay each month, and what I get in return. I also share the story of breaking my ankle here in the village, the ambulance arriving within minutes, surgery, rehabilitation, and what the whole experience was actually like.

I also compare some of this with experiences in the UK, because many people who watch this channel or listen to the podcast are from Britain and often ask how the systems compare.

Healthcare in Bosnia and Herzegovina is not completely free, it’s an insurance-based system, but if you are a resident and you contribute to the health fund, you can access public healthcare, and many people also combine that with very affordable private clinics for speed and specialist services.

It’s what I would call a hybrid system, and once you understand how it works, it actually works very well.

As always, this is not official advice and I’m certainly not an expert on immigration or healthcare law, so if you are seriously thinking about moving here you should always do your own research and due diligence.

But hopefully this episode gives you a realistic, personal view of healthcare, doctors, hospitals, waiting times, costs and everyday medical life here in Bosnia and Herzegovina.

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If you’re new here, I’m David. I moved to Bosnia over twenty-six years ago and never really left. This Substack is about my retirement, daily life, culture and what it’s actually like living in this often misunderstood country.

Thanks for being here and for following the journey.

Paid members get access to everything I create, including exclusive podcasts, behind-the-scenes reflections, photo essays, and more that I only share with my inner circle ☕✨

Thanks so much in advance.

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In this episode, I talk about something I’ve been asked many times over the years, what healthcare is actually like here in Bosnia and Herzegovina, especially as you get older and healthcare becomes a more important part of everyday life.

This is not an official guide and I’m certainly not an expert on the healthcare system or immigration law, but I wanted to share my own personal experiences of using the healthcare system here as a resident in Republika Srpska, what I pay into the system each month, and what I receive in return.

I talk about how I went from temporary residence to permanent residence, how the healthcare insurance system works, and what happens if you are working, self-employed, retired, or just staying in the country for part of the year. I also explain the difference between public healthcare and private clinics here, because Bosnia really operates on what I would call a hybrid system.

I also share a very personal story about breaking my ankle here in the village, the ambulance arriving, being taken through the system, surgery, rehabilitation, and what that whole experience was actually like. Along the way, I compare some of this with experiences in the UK, because many people listening are from Britain and often ask how the two systems compare.

Healthcare here is not completely free, it is an insurance-based system, but if you are a resident and you contribute to the health fund, you can access doctors, specialists, hospitals, emergency care and subsidised medication. Many people also use private clinics for speed and specialist consultations because private healthcare here is still very affordable compared to the UK and many other countries.

This episode is really just an honest conversation about healthcare, retirement, living abroad, and the practical realities of life in Bosnia and Herzegovina as an older person.

If you have questions about living here, residency, daily life, or healthcare, feel free to leave a comment or get in touch, and I’ll try to cover those topics in future episodes.

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Thank You

Thank you for listening to these little slices of my life. If you’d like to get more stories, you can subscribe to my Substack, it’s free, and if you ever want to upgrade to paid but can’t afford it, just email me. I’ll sort it out, no questions asked.

Here are 3 questions I have.

• What would make you hit “play” on an audio post instead of just reading?

• What makes a podcast episode feel personal or meaningful to you?

• Would you like me to add audio versions of my blog posts so you can choose how to enjoy them?

LEAVE YOUR ANSWERS HERE PLEASE

I’ll give a complimentary subscription to Coffee and Rakija for life for taking the time to answer.

One of the things about retirement in Bosnia that people don’t often think about, is heating.

In the UK, you turn a dial, maybe set a timer, and the house is warm. Here in rural Bosnia, it’s a very different story.

In this video I show you a very normal part of my life here.

Moving and stacking three metric tons of heating briquettes ready for next winter.

It’s hard work, especially at my age, but it’s also part of the rhythm of village life. You prepare for winter months in advance, you watch the prices, you store the fuel, and you hope you’ve bought enough.

This is everyday retired life in Bosnia and Herzegovina. Not a holiday, not a travel video, just real life in a Bosnian village.

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If you’re new here, I’m David. I moved to Bosnia over twenty-six years ago and never really left. This Substack is about my retirement, daily life, culture and what it’s actually like living in this often misunderstood country.

Thanks for being here and for following the journey.

Paid members get access to everything I create, including exclusive podcasts, behind-the-scenes reflections, photo essays, and more that I only share with my inner circle ☕✨

Thanks so much in advance.

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In this episode, I talk openly and honestly about something that has been on my mind recently, what it means to live between two countries, between two identities, and sometimes between other people’s opinions.

After a recent visit back to the United Kingdom, I found myself thinking about where I really belong. Am I British? Am I Bosnian? Or am I something in between?

I also talk about the reaction to one of my recent videos, the criticism of living abroad while receiving a UK pension, and why retirement, wherever you choose to live, should be about building the best final chapter of your life that you can.

This episode is very much a stream of consciousness, thoughts about retirement, immigration, identity, healthcare, lifestyle, and why I believe people should live where they feel happiest, not where others think they should live.

If you’ve ever lived abroad, thought about retiring abroad, or wondered what life is really like living in Bosnia and Herzegovina, this episode is for you.

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Thank You

Thank you for listening to these little slices of my life. If you’d like to get more stories, you can subscribe to my Substack, it’s free, and if you ever want to upgrade to paid but can’t afford it, just email me. I’ll sort it out, no questions asked.

Here are 3 questions I have.

• What would make you hit “play” on an audio post instead of just reading?

• What makes a podcast episode feel personal or meaningful to you?

• Would you like me to add audio versions of my blog posts so you can choose how to enjoy them?

LEAVE YOUR ANSWERS HERE PLEASE

I’ll give a complimentary subscription to Coffee and Rakija for life for taking the time to answer.

Paid members get access to everything I create, including exclusive podcasts, behind-the-scenes reflections, photo essays, and more that I only share with my inner circle ☕✨

Thanks so much in advance.

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In this relaunch episode of the Life in Bosnia podcast, I reflect on turning 73, restarting my creative projects, and what it really means to live between two countries.

After a recent trip back to the UK, I talk about feeling like an “in-betweener” — not fully belonging in Britain anymore, but also not originally from Bosnia, the country I have called home for more than 20 years.

This episode also explains the future of the Life in Bosnia podcast, the YouTube channel, and the return of the "An Englishman in the Balkans" interviews.

Expect stories from daily life, travel around Bosnia and Herzegovina, retirement reflections, hiking adventures, culture, food, and honest observations about life in Southeast Europe.

If you have ever wondered what it’s really like to retire abroad, live in Bosnia, or start again later in life, this podcast is for you.

🙋‍♂️ Let’s Stay Connected

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Thank You

Thank you for listening to these little slices of my life. If you’d like to get more stories, you can subscribe to my Substack, it’s free, and if you ever want to upgrade to paid but can’t afford it, just email me. I’ll sort it out, no questions asked.

Here are 3 questions I have.

• What would make you hit “play” on an audio post instead of just reading?

• What makes a podcast episode feel personal or meaningful to you?

• Would you like me to add audio versions of my blog posts so you can choose how to enjoy them?

LEAVE YOUR ANSWERS HERE PLEASE

I’ll give a complimentary subscription to Coffee and Rakija for life for taking the time to answer.

It’s been two years since I was last back in England.

After more than two decades living in a quiet village in Bosnia and Herzegovina, I’ve arrived back in the country where I was born, and within the first twelve hours something felt different.

In this video I share my first impressions of returning to England after so long away. The pace of life, the memories, the nostalgia of travelling across London again, and the strange feeling of being both familiar with a place… and yet somehow a stranger in it.

My journey started at Banja Luka Airport, via Munich, and eventually into London before heading out to Woodcote in South Oxfordshire, where my daughter lives.

Along the way there were:
• red kites circling in the sky
• a proper British takeaway curry (my first in two years!)
• reflections on what it means to build a life somewhere else
• and the realisation that sometimes the place you come from is no longer the place you belong.

If you’ve ever wondered what it feels like to return “home” after many years away, you might recognise some of these thoughts.

Have you ever gone back to a place you once called home and felt like a visitor?

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If you’re new here, I’m David. I moved to Bosnia over twenty-six years ago and never really left. This Substack is about my retirement, daily life, culture and what it’s actually like living in this often misunderstood country.

Thanks for being here and for following the journey.

Free subscribers can enjoy regular posts about life in Bosnia and Herzegovina, slices of local culture, stories that I come across, and the little everyday moments that make this place so special.

Curious to go deeper? Paid members get access to everything I create, including exclusive podcasts, behind-the-scenes reflections, photo essays, and more that I only share with my inner circle.

Fancy joining me? Click subscribe and let’s explore this unique corner of the world together, one Coffee and Rakija at a time. ☕✨

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Today we went for Bajram lunch at Tamara’s aunt’s house.

I’ve learned over the years living here in Bosnia and Herzegovina that food is never just food. It’s family, stories, tradition, and time spent together around a table that always seems too small for everything that appears on it.

Really

Everything we ate today was made at home by Tetka Zifa (Aunt Zifa).Aunt Zifa
Nothing came “ready made”.

And the meal just kept coming.

We started with Begova Čorba, often translated as Bey’s soup.

It’s a thick, rich soup made with chicken, vegetables, and okra, finished with a creamy egg and sour cream mixture.

It’s one of the most traditional Bosnian dishes and you’ll often see it at celebrations, weddings, and holidays like Bajram.

It’s not really a starter in the light sense, it’s almost a meal on its own.

Then came Bamija, okra cooked slowly with beef, in a rich sauce.

Okra is one of those things you don’t see much in the UK, but here it’s very traditional, especially in older Bosnian cooking. It’s one of those dishes that tastes even better than it looks.

Followed by Sogan Dolma.

Sogan Dolma is one of the most incredible traditional Bosnian dishes and something that takes a lot of time to make.

Sogan dolma is onions that are hollowed out, layer by layer, and then stuffed with minced meat, rice, and spices, then slowly cooked in a rich sauce. Preparing it takes patience because each onion has to be softened, the layers separated, filled individually, and then carefully packed into a pot to cook slowly for a long time.

After that we had Hajdučki Ćevap.

This isn’t the small grilled ćevapi you get in somun bread in Banja Luka or Sarajevo. Hajdučki ćevap is more of a baked meat dish, pieces of meat cooked slowly with onions, peppers, and sometimes mushrooms in a covered dish (or a wrap), so everything becomes soft and full of flavour. Proper home cooking.

Of course, no Bosnian family meal would be complete without Burek (meat pie made with filo pastry)

and Sirnica (the cheese version). These appeared as if by magic, and even though everyone said “just a little,” plates somehow kept filling up again.

And then, just when you think you cannot possibly eat another thing, the desserts arrive.

Baklava, sweet, sticky, layered pastry with walnuts and syrup

and kadaif, which is made with very fine shredded pastry, also soaked in syrup and usually filled with nuts. Very sweet, very traditional, and very Bajram.

But the truth is, the food is only part of it.

The real Bajram lunch is about sitting for hours, talking, listening to family stories, remembering people who are no longer with us, and laughing about things that happened 30 or 40 years ago as if they were yesterday.

These are the moments when I realise that living here in Bosnia was one of the best decisions I ever made.

Not because of spectacular places or dramatic landscapes, but because of days like today, sitting around a table, being treated like family, and being told for the tenth time to “eat, eat.”

And I’m very glad I did.

“Šerif Bajram Mubarek Olsun”.

Until next time, thanks for reading, and as always, thanks for sharing this moment from the Balkans with me.

More From Me

Every spring something simple, and that I find quite wonderful happens.

A neighbour arrives with a tractor.

In about thirty minutes the vegetable garden is turned over, ready for another growing season. It’s one of those small rural rituals that reminds me how different life is here compared to the city life I grew up with in London.

In this video you’ll see how the garden is prepared for planting and hear a little about the way villages still work here, where skills, tools and time are shared between neighbours.

Over the coming months this patch of soil will produce potatoes, peppers, cabbages, aubergines and more. Much of it feeds us through the summer, and whatever is left becomes “zimnica”, the jars of preserved food that keep Bosnian kitchens stocked through the winter.

I still know very little about gardening. I’m learning as I go, but I love watching the process.

If you enjoy seeing real everyday life in Bosnia, let me know in the comments and I’ll show you more of these little village moments.

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People often ask me what the village where I live in Bosnia and Herzegovina actually looks like.

Most of the time you see me walking the lanes, talking about retirement, daily life, and the small things that make living here special.

But in this post, I thought I’d show you something a little different.

This is Čardačani, the village where Tamara and I have been living for more than two decades.

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If you are a regular reader, you’ll know that over 10 days ago I was completely knocked flat by a pretty unpleasant bout of flu. At seventy-three you quickly discover that recovery takes a little longer than it used to. Thankfully I’m finally starting to feel human again.

In this video I share another snapshot of my everyday life here in the village.

Earlier today we attended the funeral of a neighbour, something that really shows how strong community traditions still are across the whole of Bosnia. When someone dies, the news travels fast, by word of mouth but more often than not, phone.

The whole village pauses. That is so true and people come together in a very respectful and solemn way. It’s quite different from what many of us may be used to in places like the UK.

I live in a Serbian Orthodox village, by the way, and the Serbs bury within 24 hours (of course there are exceptions). That alone fascinates me. How they get a burial, service, wake etc all sorted in such a short time. It’s amazing to be honest.

That sad new aside, spring is quietly waking up around us. Tamara’s parents and family have been pruning the fruit trees and bushes in the garden. Apples, plums, grapes and blackberries, all getting ready for the new growing season (and eventually a little rakija as well).

And in the middle of all this I’m also planning a short trip back to the United Kingdom to visit my daughter and my ninety-seven-year-old mum. It will be my first time flying with Ryanair and the journey itself will be a bit of an adventure.

I’m nervous.

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If you’re new here, I’m David. I moved to Bosnia over twenty-six years ago and never really left. This Substack is about my retirement, daily life, culture and what it’s actually like living in this often misunderstood country.

Thanks for being here and for following the journey.

I’ve got flu 🤧

Normally by this time in the morning I’d be out walking four kilometres through the village lanes here in northern Bosnia. But today that simply isn’t happening.

My temperature is up, everything aches, and I’m feeling more out of breath than usual. At 73, that’s something I can’t just brush aside.

It’s not pleasant thats for sure.

Long ago I probably would have pushed through this, after all, I spent nearly thirty years in the army, and back then the mindset was simple: keep going, going, going.

Also thinking back, when I was in my twenties I’d have ignored something like this completely. Even into my forties or fifties I might have tried to power through and keep working.

But getting older forces me to rethink that approach.

Recovery takes longer. The body doesn’t bounce back the way it once did. And somewhere along the line I’m finally realising that listening to my body isn’t weakness, it’s common sense.

So today the walk is cancelled.

Instead, I’m sitting at home drinking English tea (milk with two sugars, and which we used to call “NATO Standard”), and trying to ride this thing out.

To be fair, I’m not the only one. This flu has been sweeping through this part of northern Bosnia and Herzegovina. Much of the extended family has had it as well.

As people say here:

Šta je tu je.

It is what it is.

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Today we’re just a few kilometres from Banja Luka, near the spa village of Slatina, exploring something a little unusual, the so-called “stone balls” hidden just a few hundred metres off the main road.

The route is clearly marked with hiking signs, the walk is gentle, and yes… I’m still getting over the flu.

There may be some perspiring. In this video:
• A short countryside walk near Slatina
• Drone footage of the location
• Why this is an easy outing for retirees
• How accessible it really is from Banja Luka.

One of the things I enjoy most about retirement in Bosnia and Herzegovina is that you don’t have to travel far to find something interesting.

Sometimes it’s just down the road. Simple. Local. Real.

If you’re curious about slower living, gentle exploration, and what life after 70 looks like in rural Bosnia, you’re in the right place.

Let me know in the comments, would you visit somewhere like this?

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I have had one of those slightly uncomfortable realisations.

I’m getting out of breath. A lot. Huffing and puffing more than I used to. And at 73, that’s not something I’m prepared to ignore.

Winter didn’t help to be honest. Snow. Ice. Too many days indoors. Too many hours sitting at this desk editing videos, researching, thinking, planning.

Then someone commented on a YouTube recently that I looked obese. The Horror!

I don’t believe I’m obese. But I did look at myself a little more honestly after that. And Tamara, in her direct way, simply said: “You are overweight. You need to do something about it.”

So here’s the decision.

From tomorrow: 4 to 4.5 kilometres every morning. To the kiosk in the next village and back.

About 6,000 steps (maybe).

I certainly don’t want to waste the years I have left sitting down.

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Footnote:

I have just developed ‘flu like symptoms, so the breathing isn’t going to get better in the coming days, thats for sure. So I will postpone the”off” for a few day.

Check back for Updates?

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This episode was recorded on a late winter afternoon, walking down to the river and back.

No studio polish. No music. No clever transitions. Just a smartphone, a small DJI microphone with its little wind muff attached (or “spoffle,” as I nearly called it), and a pair of slightly muddy boots that definitely needed cleaning before I stepped back into my tidy studio.

I talk about the tractors I call “village taxis,” cleared storm drains after snow, the River Vrbas, and the fields lying bare before spring planting. I reflect on being 73, on starting (and restarting) creative projects, on YouTube ambitions that might only aim for £100 a month — but mean something very real here in Bosnia when converted into local currency.

There’s also the familiar thread of village life: plum trees that haven’t fruited properly in years, the hope of distilling domaća šljivovica again, and the quiet privilege of being able to walk two kilometres on a Sunday afternoon and simply talk.

This is what I’d sound like if you were staying upstairs in our apartment and we’d just had coffee together before heading down to the river.

If you’re listening in London, Toronto, Sydney, or somewhere entirely different, I’d genuinely love to know. Send me a note and tell me where you are.

From Bosnia and Herzegovina to your headphones, speaker, or kitchen radio — thank you for giving me your time.

Stay safe.

Thank You

Thank you for listening to these little slices of my life. If you’d like to get more stories, you can subscribe to my Substack, it’s free, and if you ever want to upgrade to paid but can’t afford it, just email me. I’ll sort it out, no questions asked.

Here are 3 questions I have.

• What would make you hit “play” on an audio post instead of just reading?

• What makes a podcast episode feel personal or meaningful to you?

• Would you like me to add audio versions of my blog posts so you can choose how to enjoy them?

LEAVE YOUR ANSWERS HERE PLEASE

I’ll give a complimentary subscription to Coffee and Rakija for life for taking the time to answer.

No studio polish. No music. No clever transitions. Just a smartphone, a small DJI microphone with its little wind muff attached (or “spoffle,” as I nearly called it), and a pair of slightly muddy boots that definitely needed cleaning before I stepped back into my tidy studio.

I talk about the tractors I call “village taxis,” cleared storm drains after snow, the River Vrbas, and the fields lying bare before spring planting. I reflect on being 73, on starting (and restarting) creative projects, on YouTube ambitions that might only aim for £100 a month — but mean something very real here in Bosnia when converted into local currency.

There’s also the familiar thread of village life: plum trees that haven’t fruited properly in years, the hope of distilling domaća šljivovica again, and the quiet privilege of being able to walk two kilometres on a Sunday afternoon and simply talk.

This is what I’d sound like if you were staying upstairs in our apartment and we’d just had coffee together before heading down to the river.

If you’re listening in London, Toronto, Sydney, or somewhere entirely different, I’d genuinely love to know. Send me a note and tell me where you are.

From Bosnia and Herzegovina to your headphones, speaker, or kitchen radio — thank you for giving me your time.

Stay safe.

This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit www.coffeeandrakija.com/subscribe

Subscribe now

The Update.

Hello,

The “Sip”, is where I give you a brief update from my world from the past few weeks, (in this case a month) and link to some of the things I have documented away from Substack.

This past month has been COLD, and at least for me, I mean COLD.

So heres a “gentle” round-up from the past 30 days days.

🎥 My Latest on YouTube:

Today I’m doing something slightly uncomfortable. I’m asking myself whether I’ve been romanticising life in Bosnia and Herzegovina on YouTube.

🎥 Previously on YouTube:

A short break in Zenica, time with friends, mountain hospitality that still blows me away, and a bit of experimenting with a new drone that I think will add something special to the stories I tell here.

Get more from David Pejčinović-Bailey MBE in the Substack app

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After decades in media and years of documenting life online, I realised the very tools that once excited me were quietly stealing my mornings, my attention, and sometimes even my peace of mind. So I’ve started a personal digital detox. No Instagram. No TikTok. No endless scrolling.

Refer a friend

I take a simple 3-kilometre walk through our village here in northern Bosnia to pick up 15 fresh free-range eggs from the local kiosk. Nothing dramatic, nothing planned — just everyday life as it unfolds. Along the way you’ll see the small river that separates our village from the next, the local coffee bar that sits quietly by the roadside, and a glimpse of what rural living really looks like after the age of 70.

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Thank You for Being Here

If you’ve read this far, thank you. Your support means the world to me, whether it’s a comment, a subscription, or just taking the time to read what I share.

It’s not about chasing numbers anymore; it’s about connecting with people who get it, who understand the joys and challenges of this phase of life, that I find myself in (over 70).

Until next time.

Videmo se opet (I’ll see you again soon).

David.

Out of eggs… so on with the boots and off down to our local “corner shop”.

In this video I take a 3-kilometre round trip walk to pick up 15 fresh free-range eggs from our local shop.

Our everyday life. Along the way you’ll see the small river that separates our village from the next and the local coffee bar.

I’m also experimenting with a small digital detox (I think I have already mentioned it?) So far its been four days without browsing news on my phone.

Refreshing it has to be said. Highly Recommended!

So, maybe put the kettle on, walk with me for a few minutes, and enjoy a slice of my very ordinary life in Bosnia and Herzegovina.

Comments and questions are always appreciated — especially from fellow over-50s and retirees, wherever you are in the world.

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