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A Winter Sunday in Bosnia

Sunday afternoons in winter have a particular weight to them here.

The light is flat, the sky hangs low, and everything feels slightly muted. Yesterday was one of those days, the kind where the weather seeps into your thinking whether you invite it in or not.

Outside, the air wasn’t great.

Wood smoke hung in the valley, the result of geography, weather, and the simple fact that in rural Bosnia, wood is still the main fuel for staying warm. It doesn’t dominate daily life, but it’s there, especially at this time of year.

It reminded me, oddly, of childhood winters in London, when smog had a smell you never quite forgot.

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Living Between Calendars

With Christmas approaching, Tamara and I have started talking about our plans.

Living in a predominantly Serbian Orthodox area means the festive calendar runs on a different rhythm.

Their Christmas arrives in early January, while ours, my rather English version, comes sooner.

Over the years, our celebrations have changed.

What began as an attempt to recreate a full British Christmas has softened into something more blended.

Cheese scones instead of crackers, roast beef rather than turkey, and a sense that tradition doesn’t have to be rigid to be meaningful.

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Winter Food and Village Life

Around us, the village is deep into winter preparation.

Pigs have been butchered, meat is being cured and smoked, sausages prepared for the months ahead.

It’s practical, communal, and rooted in necessity rather than nostalgia.

Nothing is wasted. Nothing is hurried.

Even after more than twenty years here, I still find this rhythm fascinating, the way seasons shape daily life rather than merely decorate it.

Refer a friend

Quiet Reflections

Today hasn’t been a dramatic day.

Just a Sunday afternoon in northern Bosnia, marked by smoke, food, planning, and thought.

Sometimes, those are the moments that say the most.

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My Re-Launched YouTube Channel

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If you’re anything like me, you know that feeling of nodding off mid-episode and waking hours later to a completely different voice chatting away in the dark. It’s strangely comforting, isn’t it?

Tomorrow’s a long day, one I’m genuinely looking forward to, so this little wind-down ritual feels just right.

Thanks for giving me a few minutes of your time. Really. It means a lot.

Drop your thoughts in the comments; I always enjoy hearing from you.

See you again soon.

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The Road Out of Banja Luka

Leave the bustle of Banja Luka behind, and follow the road that winds south along the Vrbas. Soon enough, you’ll spot a brown tourist sign pointing towards the Švrakava Waterfalls. In English it says “Falls,” but you may also see the Cyrillic version,

worth snapping a photo so you don’t miss your turning.

Just beside it sits a small coffee bar and a market. That’s your landmark.

Finding the Way

Turn left and keep going straight. Don’t be tempted by side roads – just follow the trail as it climbs gently before dropping again. Whether you’re walking, on a mountain bike, or in a car, it’s all manageable. The tarmac eventually gives way to gravel, but the signs marked “Slap” (the local word for waterfall) will reassure you that you’re on track.

Through Villages and Fields

The journey is half the charm. You’ll pass small bridges, tucked-away farms, and the occasional tractor at work. I even spotted new power lines being strung up through this seemingly forgotten valley – proof that life here never stands still. Dogs bark, locals wave, and the air feels cleaner with every step.

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The Last Stretch

Cross a narrow bridge with its modest two-ton limit, then follow the grassy track into the woods. The sound of rushing water begins to rise, guiding you deeper.

The Hidden Canyon

And there it is – the Švrakava Waterfalls, tucked away in a limestone canyon just 15 km from the city. A series of cascades pour into crystal-clear pools, a refreshing sight after the walk. Few visitors make it here, which makes it feel like you’ve stumbled across your own secret corner of Bosnia.

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FIND THE WATERFALLS ON GOOGLE MAPS

A Quick Question

I wonder… have you ever felt the pull to step away from the noise and find your own quiet corner of the world?

Maybe you already have, or maybe it’s just a daydream for now.

I’d love to hear, where do you feel most at home, and what does your “off the radar” life look like to you?

Let me know in the comments.

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I always enjoy reading your stories.

For now,

Videomo se opet,

David

More From Me

This is video was first posted back in 2022, but brought back because it’s one of those timeless stories that deserves another look.

Every summer, Tamara’s parents grow an incredible number of tomato plants, and we enjoy them fresh in salads and meals all season long.

But when the season winds down, nothing goes to waste.

We preserve what’s left as rich tomato sauce for autumn and winter.

Back in 2022, Tamara tried her hand at something new: making homemade sun-dried tomatoes.

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This video takes you along for the experiment, from drying in the summer sun to layering the jars with spices and olive oil.

It’s a slice of life from Bosnia that’s just as relevant, and delicious, today as it was then.

Today’s video takes you to the only Polish-inhabited village in Bosnia, Čelinovac for its annual Pirogijada (pierogi festival).

Why watch?

• See how a small Polish community has kept its traditions alive for over 130 years.

• Enjoy the sights, sounds, and flavours of Bosnia’s most unexpected food festival.

• Join me for close-ups of handmade pierogi, folk music, and village life.

📺 Watch here:

This is part of my ongoing series sharing new uploads and interesting finds from my video archive, a look at life, people, and stories from across Bosnia and Herzegovina.

Enjoy the watch,

David.

P.S. If you enjoyed this, please hit the 👍 button and leave a comment on YouTube it really helps others (who dont read Coffee and Rakija “YET”, to discover these stories.

Just outside Banja Luka, along the winding Vrbas River, lies a relic that powered more than just lights. It powered a vision.

In this short story-driven episode, I take you to the original hydroelectric power plant that brought electricity to Banja Luka over a century ago. Built in 1903 under Austro-Hungarian rule, this unassuming structure transformed the town into a regional hub of progress. It lit street lamps, powered electric trams, and became a symbol of modernity in what was then a frontier corner of the Balkans.

The plant was one of the first hydroelectric stations in the region, part of a wave of industrial innovation that swept through Europe at the turn of the 20th century. Its construction marked Banja Luka’s first steps into the electrical age, thanks to the relentless flow of the Vrbas, one of Bosnia and Herzegovina’s wildest and most beautiful rivers.

It was a relatively small station by global standards, but it had an outsized impact, especially in powering the early electric tram line that ran through Banja Luka starting in 1912.

This was part of a broader Austro-Hungarian effort to modernise infrastructure in the empire’s southern territories.

Today, larger hydro plants such as Bočac Hydroelectric Power Station (commissioned in 1981) handle the region’s energy demands, but this original plant remains a symbol of where it all started.

Though now out of use, the building still stands as a quiet witness to Banja Luka’s transformation. It’s not marked by plaques or big signs, but it’s there, embedded in the folds of this landscape, whispering its story to anyone who takes a moment to look.

💬 “It’s more than just a decaying relic. It’s part of the city’s DNA.”

So the next time you’re in Banja Luka and see the streetlights flicker to life or hop on a tram, take a second to think about the river that made it all possible, and the visionaries who harnessed its energy over 100 years ago.

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Ever wondered what it’s really like to run a podcast from rural Bosnia?

In this video, I share the raw, unfiltered truth about podcasting far from the comforts of big-city studios.

From battling power cuts and unreliable internet to recording alongside tractors, dogs, and chickens, discover the unique challenges (and unexpected joys) of creating content in a place where podcasting is still a new frontier.

Is it even worth it?

I talk about the technical hurdles, the cultural differences, and the moments of connection that make it all worthwhile.

If you’re curious about podcasting, life in the Balkans, or what it takes to create something meaningful in an “off the beaten path” location, this video is for you.

More about My Podcast Network ⬇️

💬 Have you ever tried creating something in a place that wasn’t built for it? What kept you going?

Let me know in the comments!

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Stay curious, stay creative, and vidimo se opet (see you again soon)!

This episode takes us from the picturesque landscapes of the Lake District in the United Kingdom to the rugged mountains of Bosnia and Herzegovina.

In this 2022 conversation, equine photographer Ruth Chamberlain shares her remarkable adventure documenting the untamed lives of Livno’s wild horses.

I find out about how Ruth's made this unexpected connection to Bosnia and Herzegovina, fuelled by a chance encounter with a breathtaking photograph that led her on an unforgettable adventure. Ruth's passion for promoting rare and unique equine breeds shines through as she shares her experiences in the UK and abroad, shedding light on the intriguing history and relationships between people and horses.

Ruth's journey took her through the Bosnian landscape, where she found out about the enchanting Livno horses and their role in the natural ecosystem, discovered the challenges and successes of preserving these magnificent creatures in their wild habitat, and explored the fascinating parallels between the Bosnian horses and other iconic equine herds around the world.

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Ruth provides insights into the impact of tourism on the Livno region and the delicate balance between sharing this hidden gem with the world and safeguarding its pristine environment.

I talk to Ruth about the importance of responsible tourism and how it can contribute to the preservation of these remarkable wild herds.

Find out More about Ruth at:

https://ruthonthehoof.com/

https://www.instagram.com/ruthonthehoof/

"Our wonderful guide Silvija (@livnowildhorses) was fantastic, she showed us the whole area - from mountains to the history of the town. She was very generous and had such amazing knowledge! We encountered such lovely and wonderful people at every turn and they made the trip even more special. What an amazing place"

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Listen to the Audio Only Podcast ⬇️

Thank You

Thank you for reading these little slices of my life. If you’d like to get more stories, you can subscribe to my Substack — it’s free, and if you ever want to upgrade to paid but can’t afford it, just email me. I’ll sort it out, no questions asked.

Here are 3 questions I have.

• What would make you hit “play” on an audio post instead of just reading?

• What makes a podcast episode feel personal or meaningful to you?

• Would you like me to add audio versions of my blog posts so you can choose how to enjoy them?

LEAVE YOUR ANSWERS HERE PLEASE

I’ll give a complimentary subscription to Coffee and Rakija for life for taking the time to answer.

More From Me

It’s a little longer than usual and includes photos, stories, and travel tips from our visit to Kotromanićevo.

Hello, I’m David, a storyteller, wanderer, and long-time “in-betweener” living a slower, more thoughtful life here in the heart of the Balkans.

Free subscribers can enjoy regular posts about life in Bosnia and Herzegovina, slices of local culture, stories that I come across, and the little everyday moments that make this place so special.

Curious to go deeper? Paid members get access to everything I create, including exclusive podcasts, behind-the-scenes reflections, photo essays, and more that I only share with my inner circle.

Fancy joining me? Click subscribe and let’s explore this unique corner of the world together, one Coffee and Rakija at a time. ☕✨

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Hello from northern Bosnia and Herzegovina,

It was back in July 2020 when Tamara and I found ourselves heading south by car, meandering toward Doboj with no fixed deadline, just the summer wind and a curiosity to explore.

We were in a hire car from Control Rent a Car in Banja Luka, cruising along the main route toward Sarajevo, when we stumbled upon a place that seemed to rise from the pages of a Bosnian fairy tale.

That place? The Royal Village Kotromanićevo, an ethno settlement that I now look back on with fondness.

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Where Is Kotromanićevo?

If you’re driving toward Doboj from the direction of Derventa, you’ll come across this ethno village about 20 kilometres before you reach the city. Tucked beside the Veličanka River, it’s a welcome surprise. A cluster of wooden houses with turrets, bridges, and medieval touches, nestled in pristine greenery.

A Step Back in Time

Kotromanićevo takes its name from the Kotromanić dynasty, a medieval Serbian-Bosnian royal family that ruled the region from the 13th to 15th centuries. The whole village is built to echo that time.

Wooden structures, carved crests, medieval-style decor, and even staff in period dress on occasion.

There’s something deeply thoughtful about how these ethno villages are designed here in Bosnia and Herzegovina. They’re more than just a tourist attraction, they’re part of a national effort to preserve rural culture, traditional crafts, and a way of life that still quietly endures in pockets of this beautiful country.

Refer a friend

What You’ll Find There

Although Tamara and I didn’t stay overnight, we did stop long enough to walk around and soak it all in. What stood out to me most was the authenticity. This isn’t a stage set. It’s a living, breathing place built with care.

Here’s what’s on offer:

• Traditional wooden cottages for overnight stays

• A central restaurant, known as “Royal Water”, serving authentic medieval Bosnian recipes, from trout with vegetables, to veal under the sać, and cicvara with local Doboj smoked cheese

• A market selling eco-products and local handicrafts

• Watermills, a small lake, a children’s playground, and a camping rest area

• Opportunities for fishing, sightseeing, or even paragliding on nearby Ozren mountain

It really is a destination for the entire family, or even for solo wanderers looking for a quiet, off-the-beaten-path escape.

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Not Just a Destination, it’s “An Experience”

What I truly appreciated was the professionalism and presentation of the staff, which complemented the tranquil, almost storybook-like atmosphere of the place. Everything. From the woodwork to the signage—tells a story, with care and reverence for the past.

If you’re staying the night, you’re in for more than just a comfy bed. From exploring the forested hills of Vučjak to visiting Doboj Fortress, or the lesser-known fortresses in Modriča, Maglaj, and Tešanj, there’s no shortage of things to see and feel. The rivers (Bosna, Veličanka, and Ukrina), offer peace and the promise of quiet fishing spots. And if you’re feeling adventurous, you can take to the skies with paragliding.

Ethno Tourism in Bosnia – More Than Just Nostalgia

We’ve shared before on this blog our love for ethno villages in Bosnia and Herzegovina. From tucked-away mountain settlements to riverside retreats like Kotromanićevo, they serve an important purpose: they reconnect us to heritage, to slowness, and to what really matters.

These villages are sprinkled across the country like breadcrumbs—on the slopes of mountains, in lowland fields, and within traditional communities that still live closely with nature and customs.

The aim of ethno tourism in Bosnia and Herzegovina is to preserve the tradition and natural beauty of the local environment, and to show tourists and visitors how people used to live in times long ago

Worth the Stop

Kotromanićevo might not be a name that leaps off the tourist brochures, but it should be. Whether you’re just stopping for lunch, as we did, or staying for a few nights, you’ll leave with a deeper sense of this land’s richness.

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And perhaps, like me, you’ll come away reminded that not all kings wear crowns, and not all castles have walls of stone, some are made of pine, nestled by rivers, quietly waiting for curious travellers to pass through.

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This week, I tried something new.

As I recorded the latest episode of my Postcards from Bosnia podcast, I turned the camera on. No clever edits. No overlays. Just me in the studio, sharing thoughts into the mic, and bringing you along for the ride.

Usually, podcasts are private things.

You pop your headphones in and listen while walking, driving, or maybe curled up with a coffee.

But this time, I wanted to invite you in, to see what it’s like behind the mic, in the heat of a Bosnian summer.

A Quote That Sums Up a Region

The episode revolves around a single, powerful quote.

“The Balkans produce more history than it can consume.”

It’s a phrase that sounds Churchillian, but no one’s quite sure who actually said it.

But the truth is, it almost doesn’t matter.

Because once you live here, really live here, you start to feel the weight of that history.

Not in textbooks, but in conversations over coffee, in the stories neighbours still tell, and in the way the past quietly shapes the present.

Why I Love Being Here

From Roman roads to Sevdah songs, from Ottoman bridges to wartime memories passed down at the dinner table, the layers never stop.

That can be painful, yes. But also deeply beautiful.

So, if you’re curious, have a watch. And let me know,: “should I do more of these live-recorded sessions?”

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The polished podcast is below.

But this video? This is how it really happens.

Stay safe wherever you are, and I look forward to catching up with you in the inbox, or down in the comments below.

Let’s keep the conversation going.

Bests as Ever,

David

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