I didn’t wake up one morning with a plan to do something called punk podcasting.In truth, I only heard the phrase recently, mentioned in passing, and it stayed with me as I went out for my daily walk. I try, as much as possible, to always have a recorder in my pocket. So I can record my steps as I walk, the dogs barking in the village, in other words, Bosnia, quietly getting on with things.

As I was walking, this idea suddenly dawned on me. I might already be doing it.

Not deliberately. Not theatrically. Just by stopping.

Stepping Away from the Noise

As you know, I live in a small village in northern Bosnia and Herzegovina. I’ve been here long enough for the place to stop being scenery and start shaping how I think and speak. These days, most of what I make begins with sound rather than a screen, walking audio, field recordings, spoken thoughts recorded once and left largely alone.

There’s no studio polish. No algorithm breathing down my neck. No sense that something has to justify itself through numbers or performance.

That wasn’t a creative strategy. It was a quiet retreat.

What “Punk” Means to Me Now

Punk, at least in this context, isn’t about noise or rebellion for its own sake. It’s about refusal. Refusing to optimise every sentence. Refusing to explain yourself into neat little boxes. Refusing the idea that creative work only matters if it scales.

Some episodes are short. Some drift. I’m so guilty of rambling.Some contain long pauses where nothing much happens at all, birds, wind, footsteps, the sound of thinking. That used to feel like breaking rules.

Now it feels like remembering what audio was always meant to do.

Why Bosnia Matters

I don’t think I could make this work from somewhere louder, faster, or more performative. Maybe like it would back in Kensington in London, where I was born.Bosnia gives me distance. From trends, from urgency, from the constant demand to be relevant. Life here allows unfinished thoughts. It allows walking without purpose. It allows silence without embarrassment.

Without realising it, that has seeped into my podcasting. The place I suppose has shaped the voice.

So… the First Punk Podcast from Bosnia?

Maybe.

I genuinely don’t know, and I’m not especially interested in proving it. There may well be others, in Bosnian or in English, doing something just as independent and just as unconcerned with the usual rules.

But in spirit and in practice, what I’m making feels close.Audio-first, independent. Not built for platforms, and made by someone old enough to stop asking permission.

A Quiet Invitation

If there’s a point to all this, it’s a simple one.

If you’re making something because you need to, not because it fits, sells, or scales, then you’re already closer to punk than you think. And if that work happens to come from Bosnia, carried on footsteps and birdsong, then so much the better.

This isn’t built to chase anyone. It’s built to exist.

This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit www.coffeeandrakija.com/subscribe

Recently, I’ve been thinking a lot about what it means to keep creating as the years move on. Not in a dramatic way, more in the quiet minutes between things. The morning walks, the stove-top coffee, the soft hum of the Vrbas as it rolls along. At nearly 73, I sometimes wonder why I still record podcasts, film my walks, or write these reflections. Nothing forces me to. And yet, I keep returning to the microphone and this page.

A Life in Chapters

I’ve lived in Bosnia, on and off, since the late 1990s. Before and after that, life took me to Canada, Kosovo, Afghanistan, the Caucasus, Ethiopia, places shaped by conflict, transition, and people simply trying to get on with their lives. Looking back, each chapter feels like its own separate story, but Bosnia has been the thread tying them together.

A World That Feels Unsteady

It’s impossible not to notice how fragile the world feels at the moment. Institutions that once seemed solid now wobble. Principles that held communities together appear to be slipping away. That disappointment is real, though it isn’t bitterness. It’s simply an awareness that hard-earned lessons are being brushed aside with surprising ease.

The Anchor in Ordinary Days

And yet, life here offers daily reminders of stability.A neighbour calling across the fence, a familiar walk through the fields, a cat settling into the warmest spot in the house. These small, grounding moments give shape to the days and make reflection feel worthwhile.

Why I Keep Sharing

I don’t tell stories because I have answers. I tell them because speaking honestly about life at this age still matters. If you’re over 50 or 60 and trying to understand your place in a shifting world, you’re not alone.

The latest podcast episode explores this more deeply. And of course, if you’d like to keep up with my own stories of life in Bosnia, from rainy afternoons in Banja Luka to the hidden corners of the Balkans, check out these recent posts.

This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit www.coffeeandrakija.com/subscribe

Hello again, it’s David, and today I want to take you with me to one of Bosnia and Herzegovina’s most remarkable places. Lukomir. Perched nearly 1,500 meters up on Bjelašnica Mountain, it’s the country’s highest permanently inhabited village. Seventeen families still call it home. The winters bury their stone houses in snow, sometimes for months, while the summers transform the fields into wide open pastures.

On paper, it sounds like a postcard.

But Lukomir is more than its altitude and stone houses. It’s a place where traditions are lived, not displayed. And what struck me most wasn’t the scenery (though it’s breathtaking), but the people, and in particular, the women shepherds who keep this village alive.

A Morning with the Flocks

It’s nine o’clock in the morning. I’m chewing on some dry meat (yes, my mum always said don’t talk with your mouth full, but here we are). Around me, the village comes alive. Bells clink in the distance, whistles echo across the grass, and then suddenly, waves of sheep. To my eyes it looked like thousands, though it was probably just hundreds.

And who’s leading them? Not grizzled old men with staffs, as you might expect, but women. Older women, walking steadily with their dogs at their sides, guiding flock after flock up into the high country. It’s not just a novelty for visitors like me, it’s a way of life here, one that’s been passed down through generations.

Why Women?

Traditionally, herding was always a shared family duty. Men tended to the hay fields, fixed fences, or went off to markets, while women took charge of the flocks, milked sheep, spun wool, and made cheese. Later, as men left the village to work in Sarajevo or abroad, in Austria, Germany, or Slovenia, the women stayed. Their role as shepherds grew more visible, and today they’re the ones who embody the rhythm of Lukomir’s survival.

As one villager put it, you don’t herd sheep with strength, you herd them with patience. And patience is something these women have in abundance. Watching them, I realised resilience doesn’t always look like brute force. Sometimes it looks like quiet footsteps on a stony ridge, season after season, year after year.

Life Between Pasture and Hearth

Life here follows a steady cycle. In the mornings, sheep are led out to graze. By afternoon, the women are making cheese, spinning wool, and knitting socks that hikers like me inevitably end up buying.

By evening, barbecue smoke drifts across the village, neighbours gather, and the sound of rain patters on tin roofs.

That’s exactly how my day ended. After a long hike (six kilometers that felt like twelve, especially after the soles of my boots gave way!), we found ourselves sheltered under a small tin roof, rain hammering down as we tucked into a barbecue feast.Chicken wings, Zenica ćevap, and šiš kebabs, while across the ridge, women shepherds were still moving their flocks.

A Lesson in Resilience

Lukomir isn’t just a relic from the past. It’s alive, but under pressure. Young people leave, winters are unforgiving, and only a handful of families remain. Yet the image of women shepherds remains strong. They are the keepers of both knowledge and tradition, the kind you don’t learn from a book, but from decades of living in rhythm with the land.

I found myself getting unexpectedly emotional here. Maybe it was the altitude, maybe the long walk, or maybe just the sheer privilege of witnessing a way of life so quietly powerful. Resilience here isn’t about dominance, it’s about community, patience, and endurance.

Why You Should Visit

If you ever come to Bosnia and Herzegovina, Lukomir should be on your list. It’s not the easiest place to reach, and accommodation can be tricky, but trust me, it’s worth every effort.

You’ll find not only stunning landscapes but also living traditions that remind us what it means to survive and thrive on the edge of the world.

And when you think of shepherds in the Balkans, don’t just picture an old man with a crook. Picture Lukomir, where women guide their flocks across the high pastures, keeping alive not just their animals, but a culture, a history, and a way of life.

This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit www.coffeeandrakija.com/subscribe

There’s something about sharing a meal when you first meet someone in real life. It softens the edges, slows the pace, and creates space for proper conversation.

That’s exactly how I met Jennie Blythe, a photographer, writer, and fellow Substacker, during her recent trip to Bosnia and Herzegovina. We’d been corresponding online for a while, both fascinated by the Western Balkans, but this was the first time we’d sat across a table together.

The setting? A small, tucked-away spot in Banja Luka, known for serving pita baked under the sač. Not long after we arrived, the heavens opened. Rain hammered down against the windows, turning the street outside into a mirror. Inside, it only made the atmosphere warmer: steaming food, chatter at the other tables, and two Substackers swapping stories.

First Impressions of Banja Luka

Jennie has visited Bosnia several times before – Sarajevo, Mostar, the waterfalls of Jajce, but this was her first time in Banja Luka.

She smiled as she told me how the city struck her. Bigger than expected. Cleaner, more modern. And her walk up to the Spomenik on Ban Brdo the evening before had given her a taste of the local rhythm: families and joggers making the climb, enjoying the cooler air at sunset.

That monument is something else. Tito is said to have considered it one of the greatest of all the Spomeniks built across Yugoslavia. Jennie described it as almost “Egyptian,” with its heavy, mausoleum-like structure and headless sphinx shapes. She had noticed the stark reliefs carved into the stone, depictions of violence so graphic they took her aback. Later, she learned those weren’t abstract images. They told real stories of what happened in this region during the Second World War.

Drawn to the Balkans

I wanted to know what had pulled Jennie here in the first place. After all, she’s based in the UK, with a career background in IT and e-commerce.

Her answer was simple and honest. She studied French and history at university, and that love of languages and the past never left her. When she first visited Slovenia a decade ago, she felt something, “an atmosphere, a creativity”, and it kept calling her back.

For Jennie, the region is more than its wars. Yes, she’s academically interested in the study of genocide, but not in the mechanics of violence. She wants to understand why it happens, what political and psychological forces drive people there. And yet, when she speaks of Bosnia, she lights up at the things that have nothing to do with conflict: the warmth of its people, the countryside, and the feeling of stepping back to a gentler time.

A Photographer’s Eye

Jennie is a professional photographer, and it was fascinating to hear how she sees the world.

“Every photographer has their own way of noticing,” she told me. For her, it’s often small, telling details, a Spomenik on a street corner, a curve of architecture, or even the posture of older men whose hunched shoulders bear the weight of trauma.

She does practice street photography, but always with respect. “It comes down to why you’re taking the photo,” she said. Not to mock, not to exploit, but to capture a story. In nearly ten years she’s only been shouted at three times — proof that people here are more bemused than bothered.

The Slow Burn of Substack

Of course, we had to talk about Substack. It’s where we first connected. For Jennie, the platform has reignited her creative writing after years of focusing on her career.

Instagram, she said, is “fire-and-forget”, great for a quick hit, but not for building narratives. Substack, on the other hand, is slower, steadier, and more rewarding. She’s gathered a loyal community of readers who share her curiosity about the Balkans, even if friends back home in England think she’s “batshit crazy” for her obsession.

Looking Ahead

By the time we finished our meal, the rain outside had eased into a fine drizzle. Jennie spoke of her dream of one day owning a stone house here, by a stream, where she could bring her cats and spend her time writing and photographing.

I smiled. Bosnia has that effect on people. It creeps into your imagination until, sooner or later, you can’t help but dream of staying.

Closing Thoughts

If you’d like to explore more of Jennie’s work, I’d encourage you to subscribe to her Substack. You’ll find a link below.

And of course, if you’d like to keep up with my own stories of life in Bosnia, from rainy afternoons in Banja Luka to the hidden corners of the Balkans, check out these recent posts.

This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit www.coffeeandrakija.com/subscribe

You’ll meet Mei Sawanoi, a Finnish woman who made the extraordinary decision to leave her life in Finland behind and move here permanently to care for these animals alongside her husband, Dražen.

You’ll also hear from Elin, one of the dedicated Finnish volunteers who travels at her own expense to spend time helping at the shelter. And behind the scenes, you’ll learn about Päivi Sillankorva, the co-founder who continues to keep everything running from Finland through fundraising and adoptions.

This is a story of compassion, resilience, and the kind of quiet determination that changes lives, not just for the dogs, but for the people who care for them too.

So settle in as I introduce you to the remarkable world of Sunny Shelter and the network known as Balkan Dogs.

A Quiet Track, A Loud Mission

There’s a rutted track winding through trees and farmland in Northern Bosnia, not marked on any map, unheralded, but at its end lies something extraordinary: Sunny Shelter, part of the Balkan Dogs network.

The video we just shared takes you there, and in retrospective reflection, I’m still struck by the contrast between the rural calm and the barking, tails-wagging chaos that greets you inside the gates.

Balkan Dogs: From Finland to Bosnia

Balkan Dogs is a Finnish-registered nonprofit founded in spring 2015 by Päivi Sillankorva and Mei Sawanoi, entirely powered by volunteers and donations. Their mission spans Kosovo and northern Bosnia, improving living conditions for stray dogs, whether providing basic needs like food and vaccines or supporting local shelters, both municipal and private.

In Bosnia, the organisation also backs a municipal facility in Preslica, near Doboj,, which had a poor reputation until a new manager began improving conditions .

The Daily Reality at Sunny Shelter

Sunny Shelter is not run from afar. Mei made the life-changing move to Bosnia in 2019, feeding, sorting, driving to Banja Luka or Gradiška for vet visits, and largely living there around the clock. Together, Mei and her husband Dražen tend to almost 200 dogs, several born in the shelter and others rescued from municipal pens or abandoned by owners.

Back in Finland, Päivi organises fundraising, food drives, vet bills, and adoptions. The two-part operation, one driving hands-on care, the other ensuring resources, makes Sunny Shelter possible. Volunteers join Mei and Dražen for weeks at a time, continuing that chain of in-person support I found so moving in the quarantine building.

Beyond Bosnia: Regional Struggles, Shared Missions

What’s happening at Sunny Shelter exists within a broader context. Across the Balkans, stray dogs often face neglect or cruelty, locked in dirty cages, starved, or worse. In Kosovo especially, dog cruelty remains widespread, despite laws to the contrary .

Why Sunny Shelter Matters

Sunny Shelter isn’t just another sanctuary, it’s a lifeline. Here, dogs are allowed to rally, to form packs, to run in open yards. They’re vaccinated, rehabilitated, sometimes shipped across Europe to Finland, where many find homes. The effort to get 93 dogs re-homed in Finland in 2024 is no small feat.

But beyond the numbers, what stays with me is the humanity in the shelter. Mei’s calm dedication after adopting one dog from Serbia more than a decade ago turned into a full-fledged mission: “I could live here,” she told her supporters. So she did. And that simple act, one person moving across countries, building a sanctuary, echoes through the lives of hundreds of dogs.

This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit www.coffeeandrakija.com/subscribe

This podcast episode isn’t about the beauty of the Vrbas river or where to find the best ćevapi (although there’s plenty of that on this channel). It’s about why, despite living here for over two decades, I choose not to talk publicly about politics.

Now don’t get me wrong. I am interested. I follow what’s happening. I see how decisions impact everyday life. But I also know, deeply, that this isn’t my country. And with that comes responsibility: to observe, not interfere. To listen, not judge.

When friends and visitors ask me about the conflict, the three presidents, or the state of the country today, I tell them what I can. But the truth? The truth depends on who you ask.

Bosnia and Herzegovina is many things. Complicated. Fragmented. Yes, dysfunctional. But also endlessly generous, rich in stories, and deeply human. It’s a living archive of history, culture, pain, pride, and resilience.

In this episode, I reflect on the minefield of discussing politics as a foreigner, the legacy of the Dayton Agreement, and why it’s better to explore Bosnia through its people, not its politics.

If you’re curious about this beautiful, complex place, watch, listen, and maybe even plan your own journey to this heart-shaped land.

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Originally recorded in Tbilisi, Georgia nearly a decade ago, in 2015, this reflective and timely story explores how online radio became a revolutionary tool for connection, culture, and civil change.

Join me on the ground with media teams from Georgia, Armenia, and Abkhazia under the visionary “Radio Without Borders” project.

Coffee and Rakija is a reader/listener/viewer-supported publication. To receive new posts and support my work, consider becoming a paid subscriber.

Hear how independent voices are harnessing digital airwaves to promote women’s rights, civil society, and even introduce the world to Georgian reggae.

Through candid conversations and powerful personal stories, you’ll meet resilient broadcasters and activists pushing back against censorship, overcoming geopolitical tension, and using media to bridge seemingly impossible divides.

🧭 What You’ll Hear in This Episode:

The role of online radio in conflict zones

Women-led media innovation in the Caucasus

Georgian reggae: yes, really!

Youth media empowerment in Armenia and Azerbaijan

Why independent voices matter, then and now

Whether you’re passionate about media freedom, international collaboration, or simply want to hear stories of hope in unlikely places, this episode will leave you inspired by the power of sound and the spirit of solidarity.

🎧 Tune in—and discover the radio revolution you probably never heard about.

Update – A Year Later in Tbilisi

Since first sharing my reflections on media training in Georgia back in 2015, I’ve had the chance to find another podcast episode that was recorded during a follow-up visit in 2016, where I reconnected with some of the original participants and met new voices shaping the future of digital media across the region. Their stories offer a raw and hopeful glimpse into grassroots media activism in the South Caucasus. I thought it only fitting to include it here as a companion to the original episode.

From Tbilisi to Baku. Stories of activism, hope, and media freedom in Azerbaijan and Georgia.

Behind the Scenes Content ⬇️ (from July 2015)

🗣️ Join the Conversation:

“How do you think online radio or independent media can make a difference in regions facing conflict or limited press freedom?”

Drop me a comment on Substack, reply to this episode, or find me on YouTube.

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If you enjoy the show and want to help keep it going, you can:

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From power cuts and patchy internet to roosters interrupting my recordings, this is the unfiltered truth about trying to create meaningful audio content in a place where podcasting is still unfamiliar to most people.

But despite the setbacks, I keep going, and in this episode, I explain why.

Whether you’re a fellow content creator, a podcast listener curious about Balkan life, or someone thinking of starting your own show from a remote location, this is an honest reflection on the joys and frustrations of podcasting from the edge of Europe.

🧭 What You’ll Hear in This Episode:

The surprising challenges of podcasting from Bosnia

Why podcast culture isn’t mainstream here (yet)

The emotional rollercoaster of podcasting in isolation

What makes it all worth it

Encouragement for creators off the beaten path

🗣️ Join the Conversation:

Have you ever tried creating something in a place that didn’t make it easy? What kept you going?

Drop me a comment on Substack, reply to this episode, or find me on YouTube.

🙌 Support the Podcast:

If you enjoy the show and want to help keep it going, you can:

→ Share the episode

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The gentle hum of a tractor in the distance, birds calling to one another across the fields, and a soft breeze drifting through the village, that’s how my morning began. Living out here, far from the city’s hustle, means you become closely attuned to every part of daily life, even the parts that don’t make it onto postcards.

A Visit From the Neighbour (and His Tractor)

Yesterday, my neighbour arrived with his trusty tractor. Hitched behind it was a massive cylindrical tank and a pump.

His mission? To empty our septic tank.

Now, I realise this isn’t the sort of opening line you’d expect in a blog post, but bear with me.There’s something oddly fascinating about it!

Night Soil Men of Old England

Watching him work reminded me of an article I read not long ago about how human waste was handled in 17th and 18th century England. Back then, there were brave souls known as “night soil men”.

These men would come under the cover of darkness to shovel out waste from cesspits beneath houses. They’d load it onto carts and haul it away, often selling it to farmers as fertiliser.

It might sound grim (and it was), but these workers were vital to keeping the cities liveable and preventing the spread of disease. Without them, places like London would have been both unbearable and dangerous.

The Ottoman Take on Waste

Meanwhile, across the continent in the Ottoman Empire, including here in Bosnia, they had their own methods. Cleanliness is deeply woven into Islamic tradition, so waste disposal wasn’t just about hygiene; it had a spiritual significance too.

In cities like Istanbul and Sarajevo, waste was collected at night by workers known as “lağımcılar” They’d discreetly remove it and take it beyond the city walls

The fascinating part? Farmers referred to this waste as “altın toprak,” or “gold soil,” because it was so rich and valuable for their fields. Some even bribed collectors to get the best loads first. Imagine that, fighting over waste because it was considered a treasure!

Old Ways in Rural Bosnia

Here in rural Bosnia, things weren’t too different. Simple pit latrines, wooden outbuildings called čardaks, and composting were the norm for generations. While we now have septic tanks and tractors with pumps, the essence remains the same: nothing really just “goes away.”

Standing there in, watching the tank fill up, I felt oddly connected to this long chain of human ingenuity, from London’s night soil men to Ottoman “gold soil” farmers, all the way to my neighbour and his tractor.

Staying Grounded

In modern life, it’s easy to “flush and forget”. But living out here keeps you close to the basics. You stay aware of the cycles that sustain us and the humble, sometimes messy, realities that remind us of our shared humanity.

A Tale to Tell

Next time someone asks me why I’ve chosen this quiet, rural life in Bosnia, far from big-city conveniences and endless pipes, maybe I should tell them about that tractor, the night soil men of old London, and the Ottoman farmers who prized “gold soil.”?

It’s a story that’s a little surprising, slightly humorous, but deeply human. It reminds me that no matter where we live or which century we’re in, we’re all bound together by the same essential needs.

Thank you for tuning in to An Englishman in the Balkans.

If you enjoyed this episode, please consider subscribing to the podcast on your favourite platform so you never miss a new release. And, if you have a moment, a quick rating or review would mean the world. It really helps others discover the show.

📌 I’d also love to hear from you!

Feel free to reach out with any questions, feedback, or ideas for future episodes.

You can send comments, thoughts and suggestions to: questions@anenglishmaninthebalkans.com I reply to every mail!

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Hello from the village in Bosnia and Herzegovina! Today, I want to take you on a small detour, far from the familiar rhythms of Balkan village life and into the heart of the Netherlands. Every now and then, Tamara and I like to step outside our beloved Bosnia, explore somewhere new, and bring those experiences back home with us. This time, our wandering feet took us to Haarlem, a city that completely surprised us in the most delightful ways.

Arriving in a Living Painting

Our journey started in true slow-travel fashion: a bus from Banja Luka to Zagreb, an overnight stop, and then an early flight to Amsterdam. From Schiphol Airport, my brother-in-law picked us up, and we hopped on a local bus to Haarlem. We always choose the bus when we can, it’s slower, but it lets you soak in the scenery and ease gently into a new place.

Stepping into Haarlem felt like walking into a living painting. Picture narrow streets lined with leaning old houses, flower boxes overflowing, and shimmering canals reflecting the soft northern light. It’s about the same size as Banja Luka, but with a different energy. Elegant, easygoing, and deeply historic.

Coffee and Rakija is a reader/listener/viewer supported publication. To receive new posts and support my work, consider becoming a paid subscriber.

Discovering Dutch Ways

For Tamara, it was her first time in the Netherlands. She found herself enchanted by the details: the benches in front of each house, the hidden gardens, and the easy smiles from passersby. One thing that stood out immediately was the bicycle culture. Everyone cycles, from school kids and parents carrying toddlers to pensioners riding electric tricycles. We even saw a pensioner being pushed along in a sort of “bicycle wheelbarrow” contraption!

Crossing the street was a mini adventure itself. You had to watch out not only for cars but for the army of speedy cyclists zooming past. And let me tell you, it’s easier to get knocked over by a bike there than a car!

Life on the Water

Haarlem’s canals truly stole our hearts. Boats drift by with families dining on deck, friends clinking glasses under the bridges, and couples lazily cruising at sunset.Tamara was completely taken by this “canal culture”. If she had to pick one must-do, it would be renting a boat and gliding through the waterways, watching Haarlem unfold from the waterline.

We also loved seeing the bridges lift for huge cargo ships, marvelling at the captains’ skills as they manoeuvred these massive vessels through narrow passages. Life in Haarlem felt deeply intertwined with its water, adding a beautiful, living rhythm to the city.

Unexpected Highlights

While the canals and bikes were highlights for Tamara, three things left a big impression on me. First, the classic windmill. Nno visit to the Netherlands feels complete without one. Second, the grand cathedral where both Mozart and Handel once played; stepping inside felt like stepping into a piece of music history. And third, the old prison transformed into a creative hub with a university, cinema, and co-working spaces. The Dutch truly know how to breathe new life into old places, recycling not just materials but entire buildings.

Thanks for reading Coffee and Rakija! This post is public so feel free to share it.

A Return to Roots

Standing on the North Sea coast at Zaandvoort, feeling the chilly wind and hearing the gulls, I realised how much travel changes us. Each journey brings new colours and textures to the life we return to. By the time we said goodbye to my sister and brother-in-law and boarded our bus back to the airport, we carried back not just heavier bags but new stories and reflections that will become part of our life here in Bosnia.

Staying Curious

I share these travel “postcards” not to drift away from Bosnia, but to remind myself, and maybe you too, that curiosity doesn’t stop at any border. If you ever find yourself in the Netherlands, skip the crowded streets of Amsterdam and wander through Haarlem instead. Rent a boat, sip Jenever (the grandfather of gin), and get lost in the hidden corners.

Have you visited somewhere that changed how you see your own home? I’d love to hear about it.Thank you for tuning in to An Englishman in the Balkans.

If you enjoyed this episode, please consider subscribing to the podcast on your favourite platform so you never miss a new release. And, if you have a moment, a quick rating or review would mean the world. It really helps others discover the show.

📌 I’d also love to hear from you!

Feel free to reach out with any questions, feedback, or ideas for future episodes.

You can send comments, thoughts and suggestions to: questions@anenglishmaninthebalkans.com I reply to every mail!

This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit www.coffeeandrakija.com/subscribe

Skopje wasn’t what I expected, and that’s what made it so special. Over three days, I explored the North Macedonian capital, peeling back its layers like pages in an old, weathered book. This episode of An Englishman in the Balkans is a personal reflection of that journey. Part travelogue, part cultural postcard.

A Bite of Tradition

One stop I couldn’t miss was Destan, a traditional restaurant tucked into the old Čaršija, the Ottoman-era heart of the city. Half a somun, chopped onions, a fiercely roasted pepper, and a bottle of old-fashioned Coca-Cola. No frills, just flavour. And somehow, in that simple dish of local Ćevapi, I felt welcomed. It’s food that speaks the language of belonging.

Skopje, Through Local Eyes

The city’s energy really came alive when I sat down with my friend Risto. His stories gave context to what I’d seen. The Stone Bridge, the juxtaposition of brutalist architecture with neoclassical facades, the slow mornings over coffee and rakija. Skopje is a city of contrasts, but its heartbeat remains constant: community, resilience, and quiet pride.

The Rhythm Beneath the Surface

There’s something about Skopje that lingers. It’s in the buzz of the cafés, the calm of the Vardar River, and the casual kindness of strangers. Despite the cranes and construction, the soul of the city, its rhythm, hasn’t changed. And that’s what I’ll take with me.

This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit www.coffeeandrakija.com/subscribe

Skopje wasn’t what I expected, and that’s what made it so special. Over three days, I explored the North Macedonian capital, peeling back its layers like pages in an old, weathered book. This episode of An Englishman in the Balkans is a personal reflection of that journey. Part travelogue, part cultural postcard.

A Bite of Tradition

One stop I couldn’t miss was Destan, a traditional restaurant tucked into the old Čaršija, the Ottoman-era heart of the city. Half a somun, chopped onions, a fiercely roasted pepper, and a bottle of old-fashioned Coca-Cola. No frills, just flavour. And somehow, in that simple dish of local Ćevapi, I felt welcomed. It’s food that speaks the language of belonging.

Skopje, Through Local Eyes

The city’s energy really came alive when I sat down with my friend Risto. His stories gave context to what I’d seen. The Stone Bridge, the juxtaposition of brutalist architecture with neoclassical facades, the slow mornings over coffee and rakija. Skopje is a city of contrasts, but its heartbeat remains constant: community, resilience, and quiet pride.

The Rhythm Beneath the Surface

There’s something about Skopje that lingers. It’s in the buzz of the cafés, the calm of the Vardar River, and the casual kindness of strangers. Despite the cranes and construction, the soul of the city, its rhythm, hasn’t changed. And that’s what I’ll take with me.

This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit www.coffeeandrakija.com/subscribe

This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit www.coffeeandrakija.com/subscribe

Not Just a City on the Way to Somewhere Else

For years, Zenica was little more than a name on a road sign to me. A blur on the highway between here and there. A city with a reputation steeped in industry, smoke, and steel. But as Tamara and I recently discovered, alongside our visiting friends, Chris and Jake, Zenica is far more than its past. What started as a spontaneous day trip turned into a surprisingly rich experience that challenged my assumptions and opened my eyes

Starting with Ćevapi – As You Should

No journey in Bosnia is truly underway until you’ve eaten something local. In Zenica, that meant tucking into a plate of their signature ćevapi. Served with a pillowy flatbread and tangy local yogurt, it was, quite honestly, one of the best versions I’ve had in the country. Even Tamara, a born-and-bred Banjalučanka with a discerning palate, agreed, it was a culinary highlight that set the tone for the day.

Walking Through Architectural Time

With our appetites satisfied, we walked the streets and started noticing the layers. Brutalist blocks from the Yugoslav era stood shoulder to shoulder with Austro-Hungarian touches, each building a chapter in Zenica’s evolving story. One moment you’re under stark concrete slabs, the next you’re admiring delicate archways and tiled roofs. And then, a mosque, simple, elegant, and peacefully commanding.A moment of serenity nestled within the industrial skeleton.

Echoes of Coal and Steel

Zenica was once powered by coal mines and steel production. Today, those elements linger as both memory and monument. We passed abandoned shafts and aging structures, listening to stories about pit ponies and life underground. There’s beauty to be found in the decay if you’re willing to look.

Tamara, reflecting on her own memories of the Yugoslav era, felt the weight and pride of that industrial legacy. Something hard-earned and deeply rooted.

The Stadium and the Spirit

One of the unexpected emotional beats of the day was stepping onto the turf at NK Ćeliks Stadium.

Ćelik is Zenicas football team, and the stadium is used by Bosnia and Herzegovinas national team, when playing “at home”.You could sense the pride, the passion. For Tamara, it was more than sport, it was identity, unity, and hope all rolled into one open field.

Up on the Hill, Looking Down

Later, we made our way up to a Partisan memorial overlooking the city. With mist curling through the trees and the valley spread beneath us, I launched the drone and took in a sweeping view that told a thousand stories. From above, the industrial sprawl softens, and Zenica’s layers come into focus, beauty and resilience holding equal weight.

Zenica, Reframed

I left Zenica with a completely different perspective. It’s not just a relic of heavy industry. It’s a place where history breathes through architecture, food, football, and community. A city full of contrasts, yes, but also full of life.

If you’ve ever overlooked a place based on reputation alone, maybe it’s time to take that detour. It just might surprise you, too.

Let’s Keep the Conversation Going

Have you visited Zenica or another place that turned out to be more than you expected? I’d love to hear your stories—drop a comment below or reach out on social. And if you enjoyed this post, consider subscribing for more reflections from the road less travelled.

This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit www.coffeeandrakija.com/subscribe

Join me as I explore the culture, history, food, and everyday life in this fascinating country. From hidden travel gems and local traditions to expat life insights, each episode offers a first-hand perspective on what it’s like to live, travel, and immerse yourself in the Balkans.

Whether you’re curious about Bosnia, planning a visit, or considering moving abroad, this podcast is your guide to discovering the authentic side of the region, through engaging stories, interviews, and personal reflections.

Coffee and Rakija is a reader/listener/viewer -supported publication. To receive new posts and support my work, consider becoming a free paid subscriber.

In this episode, I sit down with Aleksandra Drinić, a tourism expert working within Bosnia and Herzegovina, to explore the evolving landscape of travel and tourism in this often-overlooked corner of Europe.

Together, we discuss the transformation the country has seen over the past few decades, the challenges and opportunities shaping the tourism sector today, and what makes Bosnia and Herzegovina such a rewarding destination for curious, open-minded travellers.

From breathtaking nature to deep-rooted traditions, Aleksandra shares insights into the country’s strengths, the role of sustainable tourism, and why Bosnia is increasingly being seen as a rising star for those looking beyond the usual travel map.

If you’ve ever wondered what Bosnia and Herzegovina truly offers, not just to tourists, but to communities building toward a positive future, this conversation is a must-listen.

A Journey Through Time and Heritage

In a world constantly seeking the new and exciting, Bosnia and Herzegovina emerges as a relatively undiscovered gem on the international tourism map. I recently had the opportunity to sit down with Aleksandra Drinić, a seasoned professional with over two decades of experience in tourism sector development, to discuss the country's evolving landscape as a travel destination.Aleksandra, who has extensive experience working with both international and local organisations in public relations and communication, shared her personal journey through the tourism sector. From studying abroad in the UK to her recent role as director for the northern region of Bosnia and Herzegovina with the USAID Tourism Project, Aleksandra has seen first-hand the rapid evolution of the country's tourism profile.One of the key aspects that sets Bosnia and Herzegovina apart, according to Aleksandra, is its incredible cultural heritage. She emphasises the importance of this heritage not just as a decorative backdrop, but as a driver for economic development. Initiatives such as the promotion of traditional river boats, like the "dajak," illustrate how cultural artefacts can become thriving tourism attractions, sparking local interest and fostering community pride.

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The Appeal of the Undiscovered

"What makes Bosnia and Herzegovina so special?" I asked Aleksandra."The greatest strength, besides the stunning nature and landscapes, is the warmth of the local residents," she replied. "They offer a genuine and unpretentious hospitality that is hard to find elsewhere. Visitors often leave with memorable experiences not just of places, but of the people they've met."Historically, international perceptions of Bosnia and Herzegovina have been overshadowed by the conflicts of the 1990s. Yet, as Aleksandra notes, it's a ‘fully undiscovered’ gem that has grown in international appeal, moving from being a place people had little awareness of, to a destination now recognised for its beauty and potential.

Unveiling Local Treasures

Throughout our conversation, Aleksandra revealed how local populations are becoming increasingly aware of the treasures in their midst. The pandemic served as a turning point, with domestic tourism flourishing as locals explored breathtaking sites like the small water mills art Krupa na Vrbasu.Moreover, Aleksandra recognises tourism as a potential bridge for peace-building in a nation still healing from past divides. By sitting at the same table and collaborating on tourism itineraries, communities across ethnic lines find common ground, promoting social harmony.

Towards a Bright Future

As the interview drew to a close, Aleksandra spoke passionately about the future.

"If I had a magic wand, I would bring together local residents, creative minds, and universities to connect heritage with modern innovation"

It’s clear that Aleksandra's hope for Bosnian tourism lies in fostering collaborations that bring ancient traditions and contemporary insights together.Bosnia and Herzegovina is on a journey. Not just towards becoming a pivotal travel destination but also towards rediscovering and celebrating its unique identity. As Aleksandra's insights reveal, the nation has much to offer those curious enough to explore its landscapes and stories.For travelers seeking a new adventure, Bosnia and Herzegovina promises a tapestry of cultural richness, breathtaking nature, and the warmth of its people, making it a must-see on any wanderlust list.

Thank you for tuning in to An Englishman in the Balkans.

If you enjoyed this episode, please consider subscribing to the podcast on your favourite platform so you never miss a new release. And, if you have a moment, a quick rating or review would mean the world. It really helps others discover the show.

📌 I’d also love to hear from you!

Feel free to reach out with any questions, feedback, or ideas for future episodes.

You can send comments, thoughts and suggestions to: questions@anenglishmaninthebalkans.com I reply to every mail!

Until next time, take care, and as always, Hvala for listening.

This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit www.coffeeandrakija.com/subscribe

Join me as I explore the culture, history, food, and everyday life in this fascinating country. From hidden travel gems and local traditions to expat life insights, each episode offers a first-hand perspective on what it’s like to live, travel, and immerse yourself in the Balkans.

Whether you’re curious about Bosnia, planning a visit, or considering moving abroad, this podcast is your guide to discovering the authentic side of the region, through engaging stories, interviews, and personal reflections.

📌 New episodes every week. Subscribe now and explore Bosnia with me!

In this episode I talk to Dita Bajrami-Vrbanjac, a passionate advocate for Bosnian folklore, who shares her journey of nearly 34 years in the world of traditional dance and cultural preservation.

From her early start inspired by her mother's influence to her current role in directing a dance troupe, Dita discusses the significance of folklore in Bosnian culture, the challenges posed by modern lifestyles and technology, and the importance of passing down traditions through generations.

This episode also explores the intricacies of traditional costumes and the necessity of financial and community support to keep folklore alive.

Join us as we delve into the vibrant tapestry of Bosnian cultural heritage and its relevance in contemporary times.

Thank you for tuning in to An Englishman in the Balkans. I hope you enjoyed today’s episode and that it gave you a little more insight into life and culture here in this fascinating part of the world.

If you enjoyed this episode, please consider subscribing to the podcast on your favourite platform so you never miss a new release. And, if you have a moment, a quick rating or review would mean the world. It really helps others discover the show.

For more updates, stories, and behind-the-scenes moments consider Subscribing to My Blog.

I’d also love to hear from you!

Feel free to reach out with any questions, feedback, or ideas for future episodes.

You can send comments, thoughts and suggestions to: questions@anenglishmaninthebalkans.com I reply to every mail!

Until next time, take care, and as always, Hvala for listening.

Enjoying the podcast? If you’d like to support the show and help me continue sharing stories and insights about life here in the Balkans, consider Buying Me a Coffee!

Your support means the world and helps keep the episodes coming.

This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit www.coffeeandrakija.com/subscribe

Join me as I explore the culture, history, food, and everyday life in this fascinating country. From hidden travel gems and local traditions to expat life insights, each episode offers a first-hand perspective on what it’s like to live, travel, and immerse yourself in the Balkans.

Whether you’re curious about Bosnia, planning a visit, or considering moving abroad, this podcast is your guide to discovering the authentic side of the region, through engaging stories, interviews, and personal reflections.

📌 New episodes every week. Subscribe now and explore Bosnia with me!

In this episode I talk to Dita Bajrami-Vrbanjac, a passionate advocate for Bosnian folklore, who shares her journey of nearly 34 years in the world of traditional dance and cultural preservation.

From her early start inspired by her mother's influence to her current role in directing a dance troupe, Dita discusses the significance of folklore in Bosnian culture, the challenges posed by modern lifestyles and technology, and the importance of passing down traditions through generations.

This episode also explores the intricacies of traditional costumes and the necessity of financial and community support to keep folklore alive.

Join us as we delve into the vibrant tapestry of Bosnian cultural heritage and its relevance in contemporary times.

Thank you for tuning in to An Englishman in the Balkans. I hope you enjoyed today’s episode and that it gave you a little more insight into life and culture here in this fascinating part of the world.

If you enjoyed this episode, please consider subscribing to the podcast on your favourite platform so you never miss a new release. And, if you have a moment, a quick rating or review would mean the world. It really helps others discover the show.

For more updates, stories, and behind-the-scenes moments consider Subscribing to My Blog.

I’d also love to hear from you!

Feel free to reach out with any questions, feedback, or ideas for future episodes.

You can send comments, thoughts and suggestions to: questions@anenglishmaninthebalkans.com I reply to every mail!

Until next time, take care, and as always, Hvala for listening.

Enjoying the podcast? If you’d like to support the show and help me continue sharing stories and insights about life here in the Balkans, consider Buying Me a Coffee!

Your support means the world and helps keep the episodes coming.

This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit www.coffeeandrakija.com/subscribe

Join me as I explore the culture, history, food, and everyday life in this fascinating country. From hidden travel gems and local traditions to expat life insights, each episode offers a first-hand perspective on what it’s like to live, travel, and immerse yourself in the Balkans.

Whether you’re curious about Bosnia, planning a visit, or considering moving abroad, this podcast is your guide to discovering the authentic side of the region, through engaging stories, interviews, and personal reflections.

📌 New episodes every week. Subscribe now and explore Bosnia with me!

In this episode I talk to Dita Bajrami-Vrbanjac, a passionate advocate for Bosnian folklore, who shares her journey of nearly 34 years in the world of traditional dance and cultural preservation.

From her early start inspired by her mother's influence to her current role in directing a dance troupe, Dita discusses the significance of folklore in Bosnian culture, the challenges posed by modern lifestyles and technology, and the importance of passing down traditions through generations.

This episode also explores the intricacies of traditional costumes and the necessity of financial and community support to keep folklore alive.

Join us as we delve into the vibrant tapestry of Bosnian cultural heritage and its relevance in contemporary times.

Thank you for tuning in to An Englishman in the Balkans. I hope you enjoyed today’s episode and that it gave you a little more insight into life and culture here in this fascinating part of the world.

If you enjoyed this episode, please consider subscribing to the podcast on your favourite platform so you never miss a new release. And, if you have a moment, a quick rating or review would mean the world. It really helps others discover the show.

For more updates, stories, and behind-the-scenes moments consider Subscribing to My Blog.

I’d also love to hear from you!

Feel free to reach out with any questions, feedback, or ideas for future episodes.

You can send comments, thoughts and suggestions to: questions@anenglishmaninthebalkans.com I reply to every mail!

Until next time, take care, and as always, Hvala for listening.

Enjoying the podcast? If you’d like to support the show and help me continue sharing stories and insights about life here in the Balkans, consider Buying Me a Coffee!

Your support means the world and helps keep the episodes coming.

This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit www.coffeeandrakija.com/subscribe

Join me as I explore the culture, history, food, and everyday life in this fascinating country. From hidden travel gems and local traditions to expat life insights, each episode offers a first-hand perspective on what it’s like to live, travel, and immerse yourself in the Balkans.

Whether you’re curious about Bosnia, planning a visit, or considering moving abroad, this podcast is your guide to discovering the authentic side of the region, through engaging stories, interviews, and personal reflections.

📌 New episodes every week. Subscribe now and explore Bosnia with me!

In this episode Tamara and I dive into the rich and intriguing world of Bosnian superstitions.

From the dangers of Promaja to the belief in the evil eye, we explore various customs that shape daily life in Bosnia.

Our discussion includes practical examples such as bad luck from re-entering the house, precautions around handing sharp objects, and rituals for good fortune.

This episode highlights the blend of tradition, belief, and cultural nuances that make these superstitions a cherished part of Bosnian life.

We invite you to discover the layers of meaning in these practices and how they connect people with the rhythms of life.

Thank you for tuning in to An Englishman in the Balkans. I hope you enjoyed today’s episode and that it gave you a little more insight into life and culture here in this fascinating part of the world.

If you enjoyed this episode, please consider subscribing to the podcast on your favourite platform so you never miss a new release. And, if you have a moment, a quick rating or review would mean the world. It really helps others discover the show.

For more updates, stories, and behind-the-scenes moments consider Subscribing to My Blog.

I’d also love to hear from you!

Feel free to reach out with any questions, feedback, or ideas for future episodes.

You can send comments, thoughts and suggestions to: questions@anenglishmaninthebalkans.com I reply to every mail!

Until next time, take care, and as always, Hvala for listening.

Enjoying the podcast? If you’d like to support the show and help me continue sharing stories and insights about life here in the Balkans, consider Buying Me a Coffee!

Your support means the world and helps keep the episodes coming.

This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit www.coffeeandrakija.com/subscribe

Join me as I explore the culture, history, food, and everyday life in this fascinating country. From hidden travel gems and local traditions to expat life insights, each episode offers a first-hand perspective on what it’s like to live, travel, and immerse yourself in the Balkans.

Whether you’re curious about Bosnia, planning a visit, or considering moving abroad, this podcast is your guide to discovering the authentic side of the region, through engaging stories, interviews, and personal reflections.

📌 New episodes every week. Subscribe now and explore Bosnia with me!

In this episode I take you on a recent journey to the picturesque town of Travnik in Central Bosnia.

Hosted by local entrepreneur Ben, I explored Travnik's rich history, natural beauty, and burgeoning tourism scene. From the scenic bus ride from Banja Luka to the cultural insights offered by tour guide Dita, I immersed myself in the town’s heritage.

A Key highlight included witnessing sheep shearing on the VLašic Mountain, savouring local cheeses and meats, and appreciating the historical significance of Travnik's landmarks.

This episode captures the essence of Travnik as a town with a dynamic past and a promising future.

Thank you for tuning in to An Englishman in the Balkans. I hope you enjoyed today’s episode and that it gave you a little more insight into life and culture here in this fascinating part of the world.

If you enjoyed this episode, please consider subscribing to the podcast on your favourite platform so you never miss a new release. And, if you have a moment, a quick rating or review would mean the world. It really helps others discover the show.

For more updates, stories, and behind-the-scenes moments consider Subscribing to My Blog.

I’d also love to hear from you!

Feel free to reach out with any questions, feedback, or ideas for future episodes.

You can send comments, thoughts and suggestions to: questions@anenglishmaninthebalkans.com I reply to every mail!

Until next time, take care, and as always, Hvala for listening.

Enjoying the podcast? If you’d like to support the show and help me continue sharing stories and insights about life here in the Balkans, consider Buying Me a Coffee!

Your support means the world and helps keep the episodes coming.

This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit www.coffeeandrakija.com/subscribe

Join me as I explore the culture, history, food, and everyday life in this fascinating country. From hidden travel gems and local traditions to expat life insights, each episode offers a first-hand perspective on what it’s like to live, travel, and immerse yourself in the Balkans.

Whether you’re curious about Bosnia, planning a visit, or considering moving abroad, this podcast is your guide to discovering the authentic side of the region, through engaging stories, interviews, and personal reflections.

📌 New episodes every week. Subscribe now and explore Bosnia with me!

I revisit a crucial conversation on healthcare in Bosnia and Herzegovina.

Recorded in September of last year, I discuss the functionality of the healthcare system, the differences between public and private services, and my personal experiences.

I share anecdotes dating back to 10-15 years ago, highlighting the poor infrastructure in places like Belgrade and Banja Luka at the time.

However, I tell you about the significant improvements over the years, the now modern facilities and efficient services.

I also emphasise that today's healthcare in Bosnia is competent and trustworthy.

My insights are valuable for anyone considering moving to Bosnia or curious about its healthcare system.

Thank you for tuning in to An Englishman in the Balkans. I hope you enjoyed today’s episode and that it gave you a little more insight into life and culture here in this fascinating part of the world.

If you enjoyed this episode, please consider subscribing to the podcast on your favourite platform so you never miss a new release. And, if you have a moment, a quick rating or review would mean the world. It really helps others discover the show.

For more updates, stories, and behind-the-scenes moments consider Subscribing to My Blog.

I’d also love to hear from you!

Feel free to reach out with any questions, feedback, or ideas for future episodes.

You can send comments, thoughts and suggestions to: questions@anenglishmaninthebalkans.com I reply to every mail!

Until next time, take care, and as always, Hvala for listening.

Enjoying the podcast? If you’d like to support the show and help me continue sharing stories and insights about life here in the Balkans, consider Buying Me a Coffee!

Your support means the world and helps keep the episodes coming.

This is a public episode. If you'd like to discuss this with other subscribers or get access to bonus episodes, visit www.coffeeandrakija.com/subscribe