Hello, I’m David, a storyteller, wanderer, and long-time “in-betweener” living a slower, more thoughtful life here in the heart of the Balkans.
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A Morning Above the Vrbas
Every so often, Tamara and I pick a new corner of our local area to explore, not too far from home, but far enough to feel like we’ve properly escaped.
Today’s plan was simple: pack a flask of domaća kafa, a bit of pita, and find somewhere quiet with a view. We ended up at Vidikovac Greben Šamar, a slim ridge above Ljubačevo, just south of Banja Luka, and honestly, it was one of those little adventures that remind me why I love living here.
“Šamar” means pack saddle, and “Greben” means ridge, and that’s exactly what you get. A narrow spine of rock sitting high above the Vrbas canyon, where you can see for miles and still hear nothing but the wind.
A Pause with Coffee and Pita
We stood there with our hot coffee and homemade pita, letting the view sink in. The hush over the valley had that special quality you only find in the rural parts of the country, not total silence, but a stillness threaded with the sound of wind and distant water.
It’s a kind of peace that asks you to slow down and simply be.
The Path Up — and a Reality Check
The path to the ridge winds through a small strip of forest, today carpeted in autumn leaves. Beautiful, but slick and tricky over the rocks.
Our trekking poles helped.
Most local sources list Samar as a short, moderate hike about 115 metres of climb over 0.8 km one way.
Nothing arduous at all.
On the Edge of a Big View
At the top, the viewing ledge is small and a bit overgrown, so watch your step.
From here, the world just drops away into the Vrbas canyon (Tijesno).
On a clear day, locals say you can see as far as the Srnetica and Klekovača mountains.
Whether or not you spot them, it’s the kind of view that makes you breathe slower and forget whatever else was on your to-do list.
A Word About Drones
If, like me, you occasionally think “this would look great from above,” hold that thought.
There’s really not enough space to launch or land safely on the ridge.
Between the brush, the drop, and the gusts funnelling through the canyon, I’d file this one under “drone maybe later.”
Getting There
Samar sits in the Ljubačke doline area, about 15 km south of Banja Luka.
On the Via Dinarica map, you’ll find it listed as Vidikovac Greben Šamar (Ljubačevo).
There’s minimal signage and no formal parking, so it’s best to navigate by GPS or map app rather than expecting waymarkers or tourist signs.
That’s part of its charm. It’s still a bit off the beaten track.
Things to Watch Out For
The forest path can be rocky and slippery, especially when covered in leaves.
The viewing ledge is tight and windy. Take care near the edge.
If you have vertigo (like I do), it’s wise to stay a little back and let the view come to you.
A Perfect Day Trip
Our morning at Šamar was everything I love about slow exploring.
Simple, peaceful, and quietly beautiful.
If you’re planning to make a day of it, stop by the nearby Ethno Village in Ljubačke Doline afterwards.
A warm meal, another cup of coffee, and maybe try the Karamut Rakija!
it’s the perfect way to round off a day in the hills
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And Finally
Of course, if you’d like to keep up with my own stories of life in Bosnia, from rainy afternoons in Banja Luka to the hidden corners of the Balkans, check out these recent posts.
