Postcards from Bosnia is an audio journey into the heart of Bosnia and Herzegovina, seen through the eyes of an Englishman who has made this place his home.
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📍 A Walk in the Garden, and a Few Thoughts from Čardačani
Hello and welcome back to Postcards from Bosnia.
If you heard a funny announcement at the start, no, that wasn’t a railway station speaker! It was actually someone calling a staff member over the loudspeaker in a local supermarket. Life’s little unexpected moments always make me smile.
I haven’t shared one of these “walking in the garden” updates for a while, so I thought today was the perfect day to do just that.
Recent Visitors from Austria
As I walk up the hill (you might hear a bit of huffing and puffing!), I think back over the last few days. We had Fritz and his wife Nicole visiting us here in Čardačani, that’s our little village between Banja Luka and the Croatian border.
They’ve been here several times before and have already promised they’ll be back next year. They left just a few hours ago on their motorbike, heading back to Niederösterreich in Lower Austria after a long, winding journey.
From Austria into Italy, then a ferry to Greece, up through Albania and Montenegro, and finally here to us.
We spent the days sharing local food (Tamara always works her magic in the kitchen), enjoying some pivo and rakija, and simply relaxing.
Yesterday, after nearly two weeks of travel, they were ready for a slow day, and we gave them exactly that.
A Magical Evening by the Water
In the evening, we took them to Slap, a beautiful little waterfall outside Banja Luka, right on the Vrbas river.
We sat down to dinner, chatted about life, and watched Fritz capturing videos and photos.
Afterwards, we drove past Banja Vručica, natural warm pools on the river. Even as the evening got chilly, people sat happily in the steaming water, beer cans in hand, soaking in the supposed healing properties.
I love these places. Spots you’d easily drive past without knowing they exist. Fritz and Nicole both said they would never have discovered them on their own.
Off the Tourist Trail
When you come to Bosnia and Herzegovina, especially the northern region of Krajina, you’re visiting an area still wonderfully under the radar.
If you choose to stay with us, we can show you places far away from the usual guidebook suggestions. Places you might miss unless you know a local. We move slowly, enjoy each moment, and encourage guests to embrace local food and traditions.
As Fritz and Nicole said, they felt they’d seen a different side of Bosnia, and that’s exactly what we want to share.
A Walk Through Banja Luka
After the pools, we took a slow walk through Banja Luka. They were amazed by how clean and orderly the city felt, and by its fascinating blend of architectural styles: from sleek modern buildings, to the heavy, concrete lines from the Yugoslav period, to elegant Austro-Hungarian facades, and finally the older Ottoman houses.
We passed a church where a small group of young people were singing under the guidance of a choir leader, a Syrian woman, an Orthodox Christian who now calls Bosnia home. Their voices carried beautifully through the evening air.
I managed to pull out my phone and catch a rough recording, which is at the end of this podcast episode.
Weather, Orchards, and Changing Seasons
As I walk, I notice the brown patches in the grass, we’re still in the middle of very hot days, up in the mid-to-high thirties. Rain is expected tonight, and we’re hoping for a good, heavy downpour to quench the thirsty land.
The weather patterns have shifted over the years. Winters aren’t what they used to be; snow has become rare and fleeting.
The plum orchard in front of me looks sad, with broken trees from recent storms.
Tamara’s father is debating whether to cut them down and start over, a big decision at his age.
Still, there’s some comfort in the cycles. We have more than enough rakija from past harvests, and there are small green apples lying on the ground waiting to become jabukovača (apple rakija).
Later, we’ll gather them and let them ferment for distillation.
Slow Mornings and the Joy of “Boredom”
I often say my life is boring now, but in truth, it’s anything but. After decades in a fast-paced media world, I’ve learned to embrace slower rhythms.
Long mornings, time to read (even if on my Kindle), and fewer distractions.
Yes, my mind still races in the morning. Write for Substack, do this, do that. But nowadays, I remind myself it’s okay to pause. To stand in the shade, to listen to the birds, to watch the orchard quietly.
Plans and Exciting Adventures
We have more guests arriving soon, and Tamara is busy planning a September trip for us to Lukomir, Bosnia’s most remote village. High in the mountains, it’s inaccessible for much of the year.
We’ll head there with friends, guided by our friend Senad and his trusty 4x4. I’m sure there will be plenty of stories to share after that adventure.
Everything in Its Place
Last night, as Nicole looked over the river at the waterfall, she said, “Everything is perfect here.”
It reminded me of a line from a James Last song connected to a German TV film: “At seven in the morning, the world is in order.” For me, at seven in the morning, standing in my garden, the world really is in order.
A Little Gift for You
At the end of this post, you’ll find that quick recording from Banja Luka, young voices singing a traditional song in the open air.
It moved me, and I hope it does the same for you.
Thank You
Thank you for reading these little slices of my life. If you’d like to get more stories, you can subscribe to my Substack — it’s free, and if you ever want to upgrade to paid but can’t afford it, just email me. I’ll sort it out, no questions asked.
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What would make you hit “play” on an audio post instead of just reading?
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I’ll give a complimentary subscription to Coffee and Rakija for life for taking the time to answer.
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